Slip off the Interstate 10 freeway at the tiny town of Van Horn, Texas and start hurtling down south and you’ll soon start to feel like you’re departing from civilisation entirely. Continue toward the Mexico-US border and you’ll see that a 73-mile slab of tarmac actually ropes the tiny art town of Marfa into the motorist’s South-West road map.

Set within the broad West Texas landscape, Marfa has become renowned in the art world since the New York-based Donald Judd started moving his collection there from the 1970’s. Now an iconic Prada building stands alone at the midpoint of the most popular route into town, serving as a welcome arrow to the alternative interpretation of Texan isolationism. Film makers have joined in too – the Coen brothers spotted the town’s architectural layout in the 2000’s, using it as a set for No Country for Old Men (2007).

Judd’s enterprising move has since been followed by the slow drip of quality hotels, developed to cater for the some 40,000 tourists who now make the pilgrimage to Marfa each year. The Judd Foundation and Chinati Foundation act as the cornerstones of Marfa’s contemporary art scene.

El Cosmico is one effort from Austin-based hoteliers, planting a spacious footprint of tents, Sioux-style tepees, vintage trailers and other unique nomadic dwellings across 21 acres within a six-minute walk of Marfa’s main crossroad.

I spent two nights in the wonderful walled safari tents, arriving on the stroke of midnight to crisp sheets after celebrating Halloween in Tucson, Arizona. Grappling with an odd two-hour time difference, the durable canvas walls were grounding, standing on top of a wooden platform foundation along with a dozen or so others.

With cloud-like bedding, a narrow sideboard and bench at the foot of the queen bed, the tents have the essential amenities needed for a cosy stay at nearly 1500m above sea level. Tents are hooked up to electricity with a pair of bedside lamps just bright enough to keep the 120 square-feet of living space in ambient light.

Without doubt the most enjoyable aspect of living partially outside at El Cosmico is the outdoor bathing units. Essentially constructed from upturned and enlarged fruit crates, one unit is wrapped in vines, providing enough privacy for shower units and a cast iron bath. Dr. Bronner’s 4-in-1 organic soap is fixed within each unit, covering you with a peppermint blast to waken the senses.

Training notes

For road running, you’re best off taking the 2810 south-west of the city where you can enjoy broad Texan sky with fewer headlights. The track at Marfa High School has recently been laid, so a sure facility for runners visiting town.

Cyclists can head out of Marfa on the straight roads in four directions – east to Alpine, west in the direction of the Prada building and south to Big Bend National Park. But for quieter roadway, make the most of FM2810.

Note these annual cycling events in Marfa:

1. the Sushi Race which takes place during the summer and Marfa100.
2. a 62-mile ride that sets out in mid-October
3. the Hot Springs Gravel Weekend held over the first weekend of May, using FM2810 then Pinto Canyon Road which heads out of Marfa south-west in the direction of the Chinati Mountains. 110 miles in total.

The Balmorhea State Park spring-fed pool is open year-round north of Marfa. The water temperature stays at 72 to 76 degrees year-round, and the pool is open from 8am to sunset or 7:30pm.

Visit elcosmico.com for events and bookings. Get 15% off with a Zafiri Membership